Liz London is a certified dog trainer through the Certifying Council of Professional Dog Trainers (CPDT-KA) & the Karen Pryor Academy (Dog Trainer Foundations Certification) with regular continuing education courses from the top animal trainers from all over the world, including Michele Pouliot, director of training for the Guide Dogs for the Blind. She has trained zoo animals, search & rescue canines, gundogs, and helped people raise happy, healthy, and well-behaved canine companions for over ten years. What Are The 7 Basic Dog Commands ?
My uncle suffers from visual impairments and ever since he got his guide dog, he’s been far more capable of living his life. It was realising the difference they make first-hand that made me decide I wanted to support such a great cause by actually getting involved. So I took a few courses and did some volunteering, and now I’m a fully qualified Guide Dog Trainer. Apart from being incredibly rewarding, it’s also a lot of fun (even when the dogs do decide to test your patience). The biggest challenge for me is not getting too attached – especially when they look at you with puppy dog eyes… more on this
I don't teach or recommend so-called "purely positive" methods that allow misbehaving pups to continue misbehaving, instead of teaching them which behaviors are and are not allowed. "Purely positive" is fine for teaching tricks and high-level competition exercises, but NOT for teaching the solid good behaviors that all family dogs need to know, and NOT for stopping behavior problems such as barking, jumping, chewing, nipping, chasing, etc. more on this
When you're playing with toys it's the same thing: his teeth mustn't ever touch your hand. If they do you say "Ouch!", kind of the same way his little mates would, and turn away from him. So if you feel his teeth on your hand at all you let him know with a little "Ouh!", turn away and let the game stops for a few seconds. Make sure to speak up every time he bites too hard so that your puppy can learn your threshold for what is acceptable and what isn't. Then go back and play again but he has to remember not to use his teeth and to be more careful next time.
As part of your puppy’s training, then, you should do everything you can to ensure that your puppy can’t get into trouble in the first place. That way you can avoid giving your puppy lots of ‘negative’ attention which might inadvertently encourage his bad behaviour. For example, if you use a crate, or confine your puppy to one room of the house, he is far less likely to get into trouble chewing something he shouldn’t, or peeing somewhere he shouldn’t. Puppy Training
When it comes to house training, you don’t have to be a scientist to work out what goes in must come out. If you feed your puppy a quality, balanced dog food and stick to regular meal times (3 times a day for young puppies, dropping down to twice a day for older dogs), then your puppy is more likely to have regular toileting habits – which means you’ll have more of an idea of what time to take him out. If, on the other hand, you offer your puppy constant treats and tidbits and feed him at different times of the day, you can expect your puppy to need to toilet at any time of day too.
Like small children, puppies have short attention spans and get tired quickly. Keep your puppy training sessions short – 5 to 10 minutes is enough – but regular. Two or three short training sessions every day is ideal. And, remember, you can build in the ‘come’ command throughout the day; for example, when you want to feed your puppy or play with him.
It's normal and even cute when your puppy nibbles and even lunges at your hand. Since your puppy has been exposed to only other puppies in the litter who naturally play with mouthing and biting, it would make perfect sense why he would assume that playing with you wouldn't be different. But as they grow and their bodies become stronger, what was once cute nibbling eventually turns into uncomfortable or even dangerous rough playing bites. how to potty train a puppy
At Guide Dogs, we individually design training programmes to meet the needs of you and your dog. You’ll undertake two weeks training away from home, usually at a hotel, which we will pay for. This is followed by another three weeks back at your home and surrounding area. In some circumstances you may need all training to be done at home, but we’ll discuss this with you as part of the application process.
With your dog sitting at your side, set off and give the command “heel” (so that your dog is aware you are about to move). If the dog gets ahead, stop and encourage it back to your side with a titbit. Repeat. To begin with, stop every three to four paces to praise your dog and give a titbit. Do not use your voice unless your dog is at your side. You can also practise this off-lead in a secure area – this makes you work really hard at keeping your dog with you, rather than relying on the lead.
Hoezit 7: Die wonderwereld van troeteldiere
books.google.co.uk › books
books.google.co.uk › books